black and white illustration of Jules Léotard flying through the air towards a trapeze.
Story

Jules Léotard, the acrobat who invented the leotard

How leotards evolved from a circus costume to a popular fashion trend

by
Adrian Murphy (opens in new window) (Europeana Foundation)

Leotards are items of clothing synonymous with exercise and aerobics, particularly as a symbol of the 1970s and 1980s fashion. Did you know though that the leotard's history is more than a century old and stretches back in time to a daring 19th century French acrobat?

Read on to learn the story of how circus performer Jules Léotard invented the leotard and how his outfit kickstarted an iconic fashion trend.

Who was Jules Léotard?

Born in Toulouse in 1838, Jules Léotard was the son of a gymnastics instructor who ran a swimming pool.

He began experimenting with trapeze, ropes and rings suspended over the swimming pool. As time passed, Jules Léotard became a very talented gymnast and acrobat. He studied law but did not end up making this his career. Instead, he joined the circus.

Sepia toned photograph portrait of Jules Léotard wearing a costume and standing beside a column.

In 1859, aged just 21, Léotard made history by debuting the world's first flying trapeze act at the Cirque Napoléon in Paris.

Illustration of Jules Léotard in costume holding a trapeze bar with one arm extended upward.

Léotard dazzled the circus audience with his daring feats, becoming a sensation. He is considered to be a pioneer of modern gymnastics, helping to popularise the sport in France. He went on to perform his trapeze act across Europe, including in Berlin, London and Rome.

He inspired a song 'The Daring Young Man on the Flying Trapeze', written in 1867 by George Leybourne.

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Why did Jules Léotard invent the leotard?

Jules Léotard not only changed the circus, but also fashion.

For his act, he wore a tight, one-piece knitted garment. This was radically different from the bulky, layered clothing typical of the mid-19th century.

His outfit was both eye-catching and functional. The tight outfit allowed him to move more freely, reducing resistance in the air - as well as showing off his muscular physique.

sepia photograph of Jules Léotard, leaning against a wooden railing.

Léotard himself never called the garment by his name - instead he called it a maillot, a French word for different types of tight-fitting shirts or sports shirts.

The fashion history of the leotard

Jules Léotard died in 1870 at the age of 32. Over time, the garment became synonymous with him. By the 1880s, people were calling this kind of garment a 'leotard'.

In the decades following his death, the leotard evolved in both style and purpose. Initially it was used only by male circus performers, such as strongmen acts.

sepia photograph of a 'strongman' wearing a leotard and bending metal into a circle.
Vintage photo of boys in dark athletic leotards with a man in a suit, posing with a sign with words Sandow Schiedam.

In the early 20th century, circus performers continued to wear leotards. By then, ballet dancers had adopted the leotard for rehearsals and eventually for performances.

Black and white photograph of a woman wearing a leotard and tights.
Tan, sleeveless costume with wave and cloud patterns, featuring ruffled shoulder details, displayed on a black mannequin.

The shape of the garment evolved, with sleeveless, short-sleeved and long-sleeved versions. As new materials were developed, stretchable synthetic fabrics like Lycra and spandex replaced wool or cotton.

A long-sleeved, shiny purple leotard displayed on a mannequin torso.

Through the 20th century, leotards continued to give dancers, figure skaters, gymnasts and acrobats freedom of movement.

In the 1970s and 1980s, the leotard became popular in mainstream fashion. Thanks to icons like Jane Fonda, aerobics became popular - with instructors and performers wearing colourful leotards and leg warmers.

A group of people in colourful leotards doing aerobics in a studio.
black and white photograph of a woman wearing a leotard and leg-warmers.
cover of a book called Pop-Gymnastik with a photograph of a woman in field exercising while wearing a neon pink leotard.

A fashion icon

Since the popularity of fitness in the 1980s, leotards have taken their place among fashion collections.

Mannequin in a colourful costume with checkered top, orange sleeves, yellow leggings, and a red cap.
Tan, long-sleeve, sequined leotard displayed on a mannequin against a plain white background.

Today, we see the leotard in many places - from gymnasts in the Olympic Games to ballet dancers to popstars wearing embellished versions in their concerts.

colour photograph of Beyonce who is singing and wearing a leotard covered with diamonds and jewels.

All of these build on the spirit of Jules Léotard, the French acrobat who dressed so he could fly through the air.